Taking Care of Spark Plugs

Taking Care of Spark PlugsYour Cub Cadet’s spark plugs need to be checked and replaced regularly to keep the engine running at peak performance, and it can also help you diagnose problems.

Spark Plug Characteristics

Gap: The spark jumps between the upper and lower parts of the electrode, igniting the fuel. This space needs to be the correct length to get proper ignition. As the electrode wears down, the gap will increase, requiring adjustment.

Heat range: The spark plug needs to stay hot enough to burn off deposits, but still cool enough to prevent melting. This temperature range is determined by the contact area between the plug and the head of the engine.

Removing the Spark Plug from Your Engine

Each cylinder needs a plug to ignite the fuel/air mixture inside, so single cylinder engines found in small equipment will have one plug, while the V-twins found in most riding mowers and commercial equipment will have two plugs. Since they screw into the head of the engine, they can get extremely hot; wait at least a half hour after running the motor before trying to remove a plug.

First, find the spark plug wire and trace it to the motor. Pull up on the spark plug cap at the end of this wire to disconnect it from the plug. Next, using a spark plug wrench or socket, unscrew the plug. The rubber sleeve inside the socket should keep the plug secure so that you can slide it out of the engine. Depending on the model, the plug may be 5/8, ¾ or 13/16 inch; Cub Cadet offers a single wrench designed to fit all three sizes.

Reading Spark Plugs

Once the plug is out, look at the electrodes on the end that was in the engine. Their appearance indicates how the engine is running:

If everything is working normally, the plug should be a light gray or brown.

Misfiring will leave a thin layer of ash are caused by misfiring. This is due to bad fuel or excess fuel or oil reaching the combustion chamber.

Wet, oily build up is the result of oil or excess gas in the combustion chamber. This is usually caused by carburetor problems resulting in a rich fuel mixture, worn out piston rings, valvetrain issues or a bad head gasket.

Dry, black soot is usually caused by a clogged air filter or carburetor. Using the wrong plug and ignition timing issues can also cause this build-up.

A broken insulator or a bent electrode is the result of contact between the plug and piston or sudden thermal expansion or shock. If the plug is the right size, it may be due to bad gas, a lean air/fuel mixture or timing issues.

If the spark plug wasn’t installed correctly, the plug can’t transfer heat to the engine, causing the electrode to melt. Using the wrong plug can also result in melting, as can an extremely lean air/fuel mixture.

If the insulator looks glazed and is coated in small black specs, the plug has overheated. This is the result of a lean air/fuel mixture, timing issues, poor cooling or the wrong plug.

Addressing Issues

Always use OEM plugs to ensure reliable performance and a good fit.

Ignition timing on small engines is controlled by magnets on the flywheel moving past the coil. If there are indications of timing being too advanced or retarded, the coil position may need to be adjusted and the flywheel checked for damage.

Air/fuel mixture issues are usually caused by a clogged air filter, clogged fuel system or perished seals around the carburetor.

The engine can overheat if the cooling fins are dirty or the air/fuel mixture is too lean.

Tipping the engine can let oil leak into the combustion chamber, as can worn piston rings.

Gapping the Plug

Using a feeler gauge, check the distance between the electrode and the ground against the specifications in your engine’s owner’s manual. Gently pry up on the electrode ground to expand the gap, and tap it to close the gap.

Reinstalling the Plug

Make sure the washer is on the end of the plug before installing.

Always start by hand tightening the plug to prevent cross-threading. Once the plug has bottomed out, use the plug socket or wrench to turn it until seated, plus a ¼ turn if the plug is used, or a ½ turn if the plug is new to get a good seal.

Get the Spark Plugs and Spare Parts You Need for Your Cub Cadet from Cub Parts

Cubparts.com is a certified dealer for Cub Cadet and their engine partners including Briggs & Stratton and Kawasaki, which means we have the OEM parts you need to keep your equipment running. Factory diagrams and descriptions are built into our search engine, making it easy to find what you need, and we can ship those parts to any address in the U.S. and Canada.

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Getting a Good Finish with Your Cub Cadet Mower

getting a good finish with your cub cadet

Cub Cadet is famous for the finish of their Signature Cut mowers, but just buying the right mower isn’t enough to get a smooth, even finish on your lawn. These tips will help you get the most out of your mower.

How Your Mower Deck Works

The deck on your mower isn’t just there to shield you from clippings thrown up by the blade, it’s part of a system that ensures each blade of grass is cut evenly.

The blade acts as a fan, pulling air up from the ground and pushing it toward the top of the deck. This pulls the grass straight up so that the mower cuts each blade of grass at the exact same height. Cub Cadet’s Signature Cut design has a low leading edge to get maximum vacuum around the front of the grass to ensure that it’s standing up before the blade reaches it.

Where the clipping goes next depends on the shape of the chamber, the shape of the blade, and the deck configuration. A low lift blade flings the grass outward where it can pass through the chute for side discharge, while a high lift blade throws clippings upward. In the tall mowing chamber of a mulching mower, the clipping will fall back through the blade for another cut. Once the clipping pieces are small enough, they can fall through the blade and onto the ground, creating mulch.

When bagging, small clippings are desirable as they compact more tightly, letting the bag hold more clippings before being emptied. That means they’re still mulched, but the high position of the deck opening lets those clippings exit through the back instead of onto the ground.

To get the best cutting performance, the blade needs to be the right lift to match the mode the deck is being used in, and the edge needs to be sharp to get a clean cut. A clean deck is important for airflow, especially if the mower is being used to mulch or bag.

Mowing Height

Most novice mowers set the height too low thinking that it will reduce the number of times they need to mow, but this can severely limit the sunlight the grass is able to absorb, reducing turf density and opening spaces for weeds. The best growth height for grass varieties varies widely, but in general most warm season grasses like zoysia and Bermuda should be mowed to a height of 2-3 inches, while cool season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass are at their best between 3-4 inches. No more than 1/3 of the length of the grass should be cut at one time.

Mowing too low also increases the chance of scalping. When going over a bump or small hill, the height difference between the left and right wheels on the deck can let the blades come close enough to the ground that they slice too deep, cutting into grass crowns and sometimes even into the topsoil.

Deck Leveling

If the deck is tilted in one direction, the blades will be angled, leaving a scalloped finish. This angle can be checked by placing the mower on a flat, paved surface and measuring the distance between the deck and the ground on each corner. Check your owner’s manual on the correct angle: some decks are designed to be used with the deck tilted forward slightly. The deck position on small walk-behind mowers is set by the height of each wheel, while wide walk-behinds and riding mowers have a floating deck with adjustment knobs or bolts on each corner.

Striping

Ball parks and golf courses take finishing one step further with striping. While the contrasting stripes may look like they require some special planting or cutting techniques, the process is actually quite simple: at the back of their mowers, there’s a small roller that pushes the blades of grass in one direction. As the mower goes back and forth over the turf, the grass is bent in different angles which affect how it reflects light, creating a distinctive pattern.

Cub Cadet offers striping kits for most of their mowers so you can get the same look at home with the right technique. Decide on the pattern you want and drive the mower over the turf with minimal overlap. If the pattern is slightly off in one area, simply drive the mower back over it with the blade shut off.

Getting the Parts You Need to Get the Most from Your Lawn

Cubparts.com is a certified dealer for Cub Cadet, so we have blades, striping kits and everything else you need to get the best performance from your mower, whether it’s a small walk-behind or a Pro Z commercial ZTR. We can ship to any address in the U.S. and Canada.

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SC 500 EQ: The Quiet Mower

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In recent years, mower manufacturers have switched from concentrating on raw power to making their products easier to use. Cub Cadet has led the way with innovations including their MySpeed propulsion control system and Sure Start guarantee. Now with their new SC 500 EQ, they’re addressing an issue few other manufacturers touch: noise.

A Quieter Engine

Sound is a major problem for small engines across the board, annoying neighbors and causing damage to operators who aren’t using hearing protection. To combat this, Cub Cadet developed SmartSound technology. While lawnmower engines are usually designed to run at a specific RPM to output maximum power, SmartSound engines are built to operate at two speeds. In low speed “quiet” mode, the engine can deliver enough power for most conditions, but since there are fewer combustion cycles, it runs quieter. At times when maximum power is needed, the engine can be set to a high speed “boost” mode. Together with a redesigned intake and exhaust, this system significantly reduces engine noise.

Cub Cadet first introduced this technology on their snowblowers a couple years ago, reducing noise by 45%. Thanks to improvements in the new 159 cc OHV QUIET engine used in the SC 500 EQ, noise has been reduced by 60%.

Top Level Performance without Compromise

The SC 500 EQ isn’t just quiet, it has all the performance and usability expected from a top-of-the-line walk behind mower.

The EQ is based on the HW design which uses large diameter back wheels for more stability. All four wheels ride on ball bearings, and the front wheels are mounted on lockable casters, letting them swivel for easy turning or stay aligned with the back wheels for hill stability.

The deck can be set to 6 height positions ranging from 1.25-3.75 inches using a pair of levers that move the front and rear wheels as a pair. Clippings can be sent through the side discharge, mulched back into the soil, or collected using a 1.9-bushel bagging system. The mulch plug is integrated into the deck, so switching between side discharge and mulching modes is just a matter of removing or installing the discharge chute. The deck also has the same SmartJet washing system found on Cub Cadet’s riding mowers: hook up a garden hose, and the water is pushed through jets that clean out the deck without needing to tip the mower on its side.

The self-propulsion system is controlled by Cub Cadet’s MySpeed system. The top of the handle has a set of joints connected to the drive. When you push on the handle, it swings forward and activates the drive system. If the mower starts to get ahead of you, the handle angle changes and slows or stops the drive system. This keeps the mower rolling with you, automatically slowing down on hills and rough terrain and speeding up again when you’re on flat ground. This design still accommodates a folding handle, making the mower easy to store and transport.

The engine also retains the automatic choke of the standard engine found in Cub Cadet’s self-propelled mowers, and it’s still backed by their Sure Start Guarantee. That means the company will cover repairs if the mower refuses to start on the first or second pull during the first 3 years of ownership. An electric starter is available as an option.

Getting Parts for the SC 500 EQ

Getting parts for maintenance and repair of this mower is simple: just visit Cubparts.com. We’re a certified Cub Cadet dealer, so we’re able to offer OEM parts ranging from blades and spark plugs to major components, and we can ship them across the U.S. and Canada. Not quite sure what you need? Our site has built-in factory parts diagrams and descriptions so you can quickly identify the right parts for your equipment.

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CB 2800 and CB 2900 Wheeled Leaf Blowers

CB 2800 and CB 2900 Wheeled Leaf BlowersFeel like your leaf blower is falling behind the rest of your lawn equipment? Cub Cadet’s CB 2800 and CB 2900 are high power wheeled blowers that deliver several times the power of a backpack unit, making them a great choice for homeowners who need to get a lot of ground covered quickly.

Performance with Flexibility

At the front of the blower, a 17 x 5.25-inch fan with 6 vanes drawing air past a metal shield and into the blower housing. Shutters on the intake allow airflow to be controlled to fit the job at hand, while the nozzle has a 15-degree pitch control for aiming the airflow. At a low angle and full power, the jet of air leaving the nozzle can push leaves and debris off the ground, while using a higher angle and partially closed vanes makes it easy to gather a pile for collection. When rolling past fences and buildings, a steep angle helps bounce debris off of the surface and out into the open for easy cleanup. The nozzle can also rotate across a 180 degree arc for cleaning out corners without having to move the blower back and forth in tight areas.

Like any leaf blower, this unit is noisy: rated at 100 dB at the operator’s position, its use should be limited to daytime hours, but faster cleanup speeds ensure you’re less likely to get complaints from the neighbors. This blower should have no problem clearing 1,600 square feet in under three minutes.

Engine

Cub Cadet uses a 14 hp 429 cc Kohler CH440 Command Pro in both the CB 2800 and CB 2900. This motor is a single cylinder design with overhead valves and a cast iron cylinder liner. These features are par for the course when it comes to commercial engines, but what makes the Command Pro perfect for this application is its air cleaner.

Kohler’s Quad-Clean filtration system uses a metal screen, a cyclonic intake, a foam prefilter and a paper filter to protect the inside of the motor from the dust kicked up by the blower. By breaking up filtration into stages, maintenance is also reduced: most of the particles are separated mechanically by the air stream, while the foam element can be cleaned multiple times before needing to be replaced.

The mount can hold the filter in two positions. Under normal operation, the filter inlet is pointed away from the motor to draw cool air for lower operating temperatures. When temperatures dip, it can be flipped around to aim the inlet toward the motor. This brings in air that has been pre-heated by the engine block and head, making it easier for the engine to run in cold fall temperatures.

Electric start comes standard on both blowers, and with a 1.85-gallon gas tank on board, fuel refills are infrequent.

CB 2800 vs CB 2900

Overall, the CB 2800 and CB 2900 use the same basic design, but the 2900 adds some useful features for control and ease of use.

The CB 2800 can pump 2,700 cubic feet of air through the nozzle each minute at speeds up to 180 mph for fast cleanup. The blower shutters are controlled by an adjustment knob at the front of the blower housing.

The CB 2900 trades volume for speed, pumping air at a rate of 2,300 cfm at speeds up to 200 mph, making it better for handling heavy debris like wet leaves. Air speed can be controlled from the handle during operation, and it also has a self-propulsion system.

Warranty

Cub Cadet covers these blowers for three years of residential use, while Kohler covers the engine for two years of residential use or 90 days of commercial or rental use.

Getting Parts for Cub Cadet’s Wheeled Leaf Blowers

Cubparts.com is a certified dealer for both Cub Cadet and Kohler, so we can supply you with everything you need for your CB Series wheeled leaf blower. Our site makes finding parts simple thanks to integrated factory parts diagrams and descriptions, and we can ship your order to any address in the U.S. and Canada.

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Getting the Most Out of Your Cub Cadet Chainsaw

CS 511Whether you’re looking to cut some firewood so it will have time to season for next year or you need to trim some branches that could be toppled by the weight of ice and snow, it’s a good time to go over your Cub Cadet chainsaw. These tips will help you get your engine, chain and bar ready for the season.

Safety

Using a chainsaw is dangerous without the right techniques and equipment, but this tool can also do some harm when you’re just working on it. Always wear thick gloves when handling your chainsaw, and keep the spark plug wire disconnected to prevent accidental starts.

Fuel and Oil

On modern Cub Cadet chainsaws, the engine is designed to use gasoline mixed with oil at a 50:1 ratio. That’s equivalent to 2.56 oz. of oil per gallon or 20 ml per liter. High octane fuels and high-quality two-stroke oil designed for air cooled engines are recommended for the best performance. Two stroke engines are particularly sensitive to fuel freshness, so it’s best to use gas that has been purchased within the last month, even if it has been treated with a fuel stabilizer.

Bar & Chain Lubrication

The chain can travel at speeds up to 45 MPH, which makes lubrication critical to the operation and durability of your chainsaw. Always refill the chain oil tank whenever you refill the fuel tank.

It used to be common to use clean or used motor oil on chainsaws, but your Cub Cadet’s chain lubrication system should only be used with oil made specifically for chainsaw bars. Unlike motor oil, bar and chain oil is extremely tacky, letting it cling to the chain long enough to coat the entire bar, greatly increasing its life.

Chain Tensioning

As the chain wears, it will stretch out and need to be re-tensioned using the tensioner screw, located on the front of the engine cover next to the bar. To check the tension, lift the top of the chain: there should be just a few millimeters of space between the chain and the bar.

Chain Sharpening

The debris coming out of the chainsaw cut should be in the form of small chips. If the debris is mostly sawdust, the blades are dull. If they become too dull, the chain can get stuck in the wood, causing the chainsaw to buck dangerously. For the best results, the chain should be sharpened each time the gas tank is refilled.

Chainsaw blades have two components: a guide and a one-sided cutting surface. The guides keep the chainsaw at the right height for the blades to cut evenly through the wood, while the cutting surfaces alternate between left and right-sided blades to get an even cut. Both the blade and guide need to be filed down as a pair so the blade can cut at the correct depth.

Information on the blade angle and guide height can be found in your chainsaw’s owner’s manual. To sharpen the chain correctly, you’ll need a chainsaw-specific sharpening kit. The blades themselves should be filed with a round file that is the same diameter as the blade curve, paired with an angle gauge to get the correct blade shape. A flat file and depth gauge should be used on the blade guides.

When sharpening, the chain brake needs to be engaged and the bar clamped in a vice to keep the chain steady as you work. When you’re ready to move to the next blade, disengage the brake and slide the chain to get the blade into position.

Getting Parts for Your Cub Cadet Chainsaw

Is it time to replace your chain or bar? www.cubparts.com is a certified Cub Cadet dealer, and our massive warehouse lets us keep parts in stock for everything from older commercial saws to the new CS 511 so you can get what you need quickly. We can send whatever you need for your Cub Cadet to any address in the USA and Canada.

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Using TruEdge for Better Golf Courses

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We may not have self-driving cars yet, but we’re starting to see related technologies like lane departure warning systems and variable cruise control. Likewise, we’re seeing similar technology in mowers that point the way to automated landscaping. Cub Cadet’s TruEdge system uses advanced sensor technology to help golf course landscapers maintain greens while reducing overall maintenance, pointing the way toward better residential mowers.

Golf Courses: The Cutting Edge of Mowing Technology

When it comes to turf, golf courses are at a level far beyond normal landscaping. Not only do these green spaces need to be beautiful, they need to adhere to the original design for consistent play. A minor nuisance like a few weeds or a bald patch can keep golfers from playing their game as intended, and the smallest variations in grass height and density can alter game play. If the course is used for a professional game, the green should be at its best so that the only thing determining the final score is the players’ abilities.

Therein lies the problem: with such intensive maintenance, it’s easy for the shape of course features to change over time as landscapers make slight alterations to their mowing patterns. This phenomenon, known as “greens creep,” can cause the edges of greens and tees to move at a rate of one to four inches per month, requiring remarking, removing and eventually reshaping of the green’s edge. That’s where the TruEdge system comes in.

TruEdge

When Cub Cadet opened their Golf and Sports Turf division a couple years ago, they purchased several small specialty equipment makers to create a complete lawn care system. By combining these companies’ groundbreaking lawn care techniques with Cub Cadet’s own research and extensive resources, they’ve leapfrogged ahead of other manufacturers when it comes to cutting edge landscaping.

The TruEdge system originated with Precise Path Robotics, the same company behind the tracking system of the RG3 turf mower. TruEdge uses a metal wire buried in the soil for guidance, similar to current residential automated mowers. However, while residential systems can only use a wire buried near the surface, this professional system can sense the wire when buried at a depth of 10-12 inches. This greatly reduces the chance of damage, letting the operator mow over the exact same area over several years. To make the line visible to the system’s sensor at that depth, a quick coupling transmitter is attached to the line to energize it when it’s time to mow.

Installation starts by marking off the correct placement of the green on the course. The area is edged to create a visible border, then a standard cable trencher is used to lay down the sensor wire across this border. Overall, this is no more intensive than a single greens correction.

The TruEdge detector can attach to any turf mower regardless of brand or size, so operators can gain the benefits of this system without having to buy all new equipment. It uses a sensor that is lined up with the outer edge of the reel and a multicolor display that can be mounted within easy view of the operator.

Reading the display is simple: the display has two arrows and a center line. LEDs light up across the display to show the mower’s position relative to the wire. Once the operator has the mower lined up correctly, a row of blue LEDs light up over the center line. This lets even inexperienced operators mow against the same edge time after time to maintain the course and eliminate the need for corrective landscaping.

The Future

For course operators, the TruEdge system is a bargain thanks to the amount of work it saves. While this system with its bulky, high sensitivity sensor may be out of reach of regular buyers for some time, it points the way to major improvements in landscaping automation.

The depth of the wire places it in an area that is below the frost line in most areas, and the only activity likely to interrupt the path of the wire is from digging post holes or doing utility work. It also doesn’t require special equipment to installation, and the sensor is accurate enough to all but eliminate trimming around walls and other obstacles.

Getting Parts for Your Cub Cadet

You might not be able to get a TruEdge for your mower, but you can still get everything else for your Cub Cadet equipment at Cubparts.com. We’re a certified dealer for Cub Cadet and their manufacturing partners, so we’re able to carry parts for everything from the smallest string trimmer to the biggest commercial ZTR. Best of all, we can ship your order to any address in the U.S. and Canada.

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Leveling the Deck On Your Cub Cadet

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Is your mower leaving a sloped or wavy cutting finish? There’s a good chance the deck is out of alignment. Here’s what you need to do to get your Cub Cadet’s deck in the correct position, whether you have a riding mower or a ZTR.

Symptoms of a Misaligned Deck

There are three ways that a misaligned deck can result in a poor cutting finish:

– If the finish is wavy or has smooth troughs, the deck is probably misaligned front to rear.

– If the grass slopes in one direction at a width about equal to the deck, the deck is probably misaligned side to side.

– If the deck is scalping the grass even though the mowing height should be high enough to stay off the ground, the deck may be misaligned.

Keep in mind that tire pressure can also affect the angle of the deck. This should be checked first before adjusting the deck position.

Before You Begin

The mower should be on a flat surface, and the parking brake should be engaged. Parking it on a paved surface like a driveway will make it easier to take measurements. Remove the key from the ignition to prevent an accidental start. Always wear thick gloves when handling mower blades to prevent cuts.

Adjusting the Deck Height Front to Rear

1. Using the height adjustment lever, set the deck height somewhere in the middle.
2. Turn the blade next to the discharge chute until the ends are pointed toward the front and rear of the mower.
3. Measure the distance from the blade tips to the ground. On riding mowers, the front of the blade should be between ¼ to 3/8 of an inch lower than the rear of the blade. On ZTRs, the front should be ¼ to ½ an inch lower than the rear.

To change the height on riding mowers, turn the lock nut on the end of the front deck hanger rod to change the height. Some models have a jam nut that needs to be loosened before the lock nut will move. Once the deck is level, retighten the jam nut.

To change the height on ZTRs, loosen or tighten the jam nuts on the stabilizer bracket, located on the front face of the deck.

Adjusting the Deck Height Side to Side

1. Turn the blade next to the discharge chute until the ends are pointed to the sides of the mower.
2. Measure the height between the rightmost blade tip and the ground on the blade on the right side of the deck as well as the height between the left tip of the left most blade on the deck and the ground. If the deck is level, both measurements should be equal.

To adjust the deck on XT Enduro Series mowers, turn the adjustment nuts found on the rods underneath the rear fenders. There is a jam nut over each adjustment nut that needs to be loosened to allow adjustment, then tightened once the deck is level.

To adjust the deck on a ZTR, loosen the ½ inch bolt on the left side adjustment gear, located below the deck hanger rod. Turn the ¾ inch nut that goes over the bolt to raise or lower the deck. Tighten the bolt once the deck is level.

To adjust the deck on all other Cub Cadet riding mowers, loosen the bolt on the adjustment gear, taking care not to remove it completely. This bolt and gear can be found on the left deck hanger. Turn the gear to adjust the height, then once the blade measurements match, tighten down the bolt.

Getting Parts for Your Cub Cadet Mower

Find a bent hanger or notice your blades are due for a replacement? Cubparts.com carries everything you need to fix your mower. Our site integrates factory parts diagrams and descriptions into our search engine so you can quickly find the part you need, and we can ship that part to any address in the U.S. or Canada.

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Replacing a Belt on Your Cub Cadet Lawn Tractor

Cub Cadet XT3 GS

Belts are easy to forget about, but as the season wears on, it becomes more likely that a stretched or broken belt will keep your mower’s deck from working. Here’s what you need to know to replace the belts on your Cub Cadet, whether you have a wide-area walk-behind, a riding mower or a ZTR.

Safety

While it may be possible to change a belt without separating the deck from the mower, it’s not worth saving a couple minutes on a belt replacement if it means the risk of having the mower fall on you. Cub Cadet designs their decks to be easy to remove, so there’s no reason to tilt a riding mower or ZTR to access the belt.

It’s easy to accidentally touch the engine or muffler when working around the engine pulley, so it’s a good idea to let the mower cool for at least a half hour before replacing the belt. Before you start working on the mower, unhook the wires from the spark plugs to prevent an accidental start.

Removing the Deck on a Riding Mower

1.Move the deck height lever to the lowest position.
2. There are J hooks on the left and right sides of the deck that need to be separated from the mower. To do this, simply pull them outward.
3. Move the deck height lever to the highest position.
4. Remove the cotter pin from the stabilizer rod and slide the bar out of the hanger bracket.
5. Remove the screw holding the belt keeper around the engine pulley. Remove the keeper.
6. Slide the belt off of the PTO pulley.
7. Remove the bow tie clip and release the PTO cable from the hanger bracket. Remove the tension spring from the idler arm.
8. Turn the front wheels to left. You should be able to slide the deck out from the right side of the mower.

Changing a Riding Mower Deck Belt

After the deck has been removed from the mower, do the following:

1. Remove the belt cover from the outer pulleys.
2. Unhook the idler spring, then unscrew the nut and bolt that hold the idler pulley to the belt keeper.
3. Turn the square hole in the right idler bracket with a 3/8 drive ratchet to separate the pulleys. Remove the left pulley.
4. Replace the belt.
5. Follow the previous steps in reverse order to reassemble the deck.

Removing the Deck from a ZTR

1. Remove the mower deck belt-keeper rod. Slide the deck belt off of the engine pulley.
2. Set the deck to the highest cutting position. Slide a set of wood blocks underneath the deck, then set the mower deck to the lowest height to let it rest on these blocks.
3. Slide out the J-hooks on the left and right sides of the deck to release it. Slide out the blocks, then take the pin out of the front deck hanger rod.
4. Turn the front wheels to left. You should be able to slide the deck out from the right side of the mower.

Changing the Deck Belt on a ZTR

Once the deck has been separated from the mower, do the following:
1. Using a ratchet, remove the deck belt covers and the nuts and bolts that hold the idler pulley to the belt keeper.
2. Pull off the left idler pulley and remove the old belt. Loop the new mower deck belt around both pulleys.
3. Reassemble the mower by following the previous instructions in reverse order.

Changing the Belt on a Wide Area Walk-Behind Mower

1. Tip the mower so that the engine air filter is facing up.
2. Use Cub Cadet’s Universal Blade Removal Tool to take off the mower blade.
3. Remove the screws that secure the engine baffle and drive belt cover to the deck. Remove the baffle and cover.
4. Remove the belt from the blade adapter and drive pulley, then slide the adapter off of the crankshaft.
5. Starting at the rear of the mower, slide the belt off of the transmission pulley.
6. Push the deck baffle aside and slide the belt off of the engine pulley.
7. Slide the new belt in between the deck and the baffle. Wrap the belt around the transmission pulley and then the engine pulley.
8. Reassemble the mower following steps 1-6 in reverse order. When installing the blade, tighten the blade bolt to the torque specified in the owner’s manual.

Where to Get a New Belt for Your Cub Cadet

www.cubparts.com is a certified dealer for Cub Cadet, so we carry OEM belts that will fit your mower correctly and provide factory reliability. Our site’s search engine lets you quickly identify the right part thanks to built-in factory diagrams and descriptions. We ship across the U.S. and Canada.

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Fueling Your Cub Cadet

Fueling Your Cub Cadet

Most problems with small engines can be traced to fuel. What kind of fuel should you be using in your Cub Cadet, and how should you be using it to ensure your equipment works reliably?

Which Type of Gasoline is Best?

Ethanol can cause problems because it’s hygroscopic: over time, it absorbs water and will separate from the gasoline it’s mixed with, causing problems with starting and ignition. This isn’t a problem in cars since the fuel is usually burned shortly after purchase, but fuel can sit in outdoor power equipment for months.

Unfortunately, some owners have taken this to mean that fuel problems can be eliminated by switching to ethanol-free fuel. This just causes another problem: without the solvent properties of ethanol, modern gasoline quickly forms gums that varnish fuel components and make the fuel harder to burn. This also causes problems with starting and ignition.

All engines used in recent Cub Cadets regardless of manufacturer are designed to run just fine on ethanol blends up to 10%. When it comes to fueling your equipment, the most important factors are freshness, which is affected by both when the fuel was purchased and whether it has been treated with a stabilizer. The effect of these factors depends on the engine you’re using.

Two Stroke Engines

A two-stroke engine uses the crank to push air and fuel in and move exhaust gases out, which means it can’t keep oil in the crankcase like a four stroke engine. Instead, they depend on oil mixed with the fuel for lubrication.

Modern Cub Cadet two strokes like the 27cc motor found in some of their current string trimmers need oil mixed with the fuel at a 50:1 ratio. That means 2.6 ounces of oil needs to be mixed with every gallon of gasoline, or 20 ml for every liter. Older engines may need a 40:1 ratio, which is 3.2 oz/gallon or 25 ml/liter, or 32:1, which is 4 oz/gallon or 31.25 ml/liter. It’s important to get exactly the right ratio: if there’s too little oil, the engine won’t be protected from friction wear, and if there’s too much oil, the fuel mixture will be lean, leading to high combustion temperatures and overheating.

Two stroke engines are the most sensitive to stale fuel. Gasoline should always be mixed with a stabilizer, and it should be used within one month of purchase. For this reason, the amount of oil mixed fuel you keep on hand should be minimal, and any leftover fuel should be run through the engine before storing it for the off-season.

Four Stroke Engine with Carburetors

Whether the motor was made by Cub Cadet, Kawasaki, Kohler, Honda or Briggs & Stratton, the fuel recommendations remain the same: untreated fuel can be used for up to a month after purchase, while treated fuel can be used for up to three months.

When it’s time to store your equipment, the motor should be run for a few minutes with treated fuel, then the fuel system should be drained. This keeps old gas from lacquering inside the fuel system, and any fuel left over is less likely to cause problems.

Fuel Injected Engines

A fuel injector sprays a fine mist of fuel into the intake, helping it atomize and mix with the air. This not only improves fuel economy and performance compared to carburetor-fed engines, it also works better with less volatile fuels.

Kohler’s Aegis V-Twin, found in some Cub Cadet UTVs, needs its fuel to be treated just like a carburetor-equipped engine, with straight gasoline used within a month of purchase or treated fuel within three months of purchase. However, the fuel system doesn’t need to be drained before storage if the fuel inside is stabilized.

Cub Cadet’s fuel injected engines can run on straight fuel, only requiring stabilizer when being put into storage. These engines can also run on gasoline blended with up to 20% ethanol so they can be used with E15.

Getting Rid of Old Fuel

Regular gasoline can be poured into your car’s gas tank. Since it’s fuel injected and the stale fuel it gets will be mixed with a large quantity of fresh fuel, the engine should have no problem burning it.

If you have leftover fuel mixed with two stroke oil, contact your local recycling center to find out where it can be disposed: pouring this fuel into your car’s fuel tank could damage oxygen sensors and other sensitive components.

Repairing Your Cub Cadet’s Fuel System

Have a cracked fuel line or dried out seals around the carburetor? You can get everything you need to fix your Cub Cadet at www.cubparts.com. Our site has built in parts diagrams and descriptions to help you find what you need, and you can have your order shipped to any address in the U.S. and Canada.

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Cub Cadet CC 30 Rider

Cub Cadet CC 30 Rider

Cub Cadet’s CC 30 Rider is the best selling rear engine riding mower on the market, and it’s easy to see why when Consumer Report has praised it for its excellent clipping dispersal, clump-free mulching and general ease of use. What makes this tiny riding mower such a great choice for small lawns?

Operating Simplicity

Whether you’re new to riding mowers or you can operate a lap bar ZTR like a pro, there’s a lot to like about the CC 30’s design. The overall layout is similar to a mid-deck ZTR with the operator sitting directly above the deck, letting them get a clear view of obstacles before they reach the blade.

Although it does have a turning radius like a lawn tractor, the controls are identical to the Synchro-Steer system Cub Cadet uses in their professional mowers. The direction is controlled by a steering wheel, while a pair of pedals let the operator go forward or reverse while offering fine adjustment to get just the right speed. This makes it far easier to control than a standard riding mower.

Other smaller features help make the mower simple and comfortable to use. The steering column telescopes and the fuel level can be checked by looking straight down at a slot in the frame that exposes the translucent gas tank. The CC 30 is about the same size as a walk-behind mower, so it’s easy to store.

Performance

This mower is built for one purpose: cut one acre of suburban lawn. That means an emphasis on maneuverability and cut quality.

This starts with a 14 gauge steel stamped deck that provides Cub Cadet’s characteristic high vacuum for a superior finish. Inside this shell, there’s a single 30-inch blade riding on a spindle supported by ball bearings. This deck can be set to one of 5 cutting heights ranging from 1.5-4 inches, and it has the same Smartjet deck washing system found on other Cub Cadet mowers, making cleaning as simple as hooking up a hose.

The CC 30 is powered by Cub Cadet’s single cylinder 382 cc engine. While it may be small, it still has a full pressure oil system with an automotive-style filter to give it the same wear protection as a commercial motor. Likewise, the company went with a hydrostatic transmission from Hydro-Gear, a company that supplies equipment for a wide range of commercial mowers. The T2HP unit used in the CC 30 is designed to be maintenance free and has a built-in cooling fan. Together, the motor and transmission propel the mower to a top speed of 4.25 mph when going forward and 4.35 mph in reverse.

Warranty

Whether you choose the base CC 30 or go with the LED headlight-equipped CC 30 H, Cub Cadet will guarantee the mower for three years or 120 hours of residential use.

Parts

When you need to service the CC 30, visit www.cubparts.com. We’re a certified Cub Cadet dealer, so we carry everything you need for your mower from blades to belts. Our site has factory diagrams built into its search engine, making it easy to identify the part you need. We have a massive parts stock for fast shipping, and we can have your order delivered anywhere in the U.S. and Canada.

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